This installation documentation along with companion check lists, (see Starter Conversion Check Lists) will contain all the steps required to perform the conversion.
The first phase of the conversion is to remove the engine cradle and the swingarm. See the first phase check list removing the engine cradle and swingarm for what is involved to accomplish this phase. The following picture is what the bike looks like at the end of this phase.
You will need to remove your swingarm from the engine cradle and our technical article Removing the swinging arm spindle will help accomplish this task.
We are installing the MK3 vernier adjustable isolastics into the engine cradle for this bike.
The instructions that come with the MK3 rear isolastics and the exploded view above show the abutment (37), with the set screw (26), on the fixed end
and on the right side.
In most cases it would not matter which direction you insert the bonded rubber shaft (34), but with our starter, DO NOT mount it as shown above.
You want the adjuster (22) on the right, since the starter motor does not allow enough room to easily work the adjuster if it is on the left.
The end of the shaft where the threads do not go completely to the end of the shaft is the fixed end.
The set screw when tightened will press against the un-threaded part of the shaft.
Before pressing the bonded rubber shaft into the engine cradle, make sure the inside of the tube is clean and smooth.
We apply a very thin film of grease to the inside of the tube, just enough to help the rubber bushings on the shaft slide into the tube.
Start the first rubber bushing by hand to get all the leading edge into the tube.
Press the shaft into the tube with an equal amount of the threaded ends sticking out of the tube.
Place the end cap (36) over end of the tube on the fixed end and the PTFE washer (23) up next to the end cap.
Thread the abutment on to the fixed end of the shaft and if it runs out of thread just as it snugs up against the PTFE washer and end cap, allowing
the PTFE washer to rotate, the shaft is in the proper position.
If you are not using the MK3 isolastics, remove the isolastics from your old engine cradle and insert them into the new cradle.
The starter battery wires are color coded for a negative grounded system, but by following the information below all will work correctly. This harness consists of the following:
If you are using the stock switch clusters, one button is not normally used. This button is on the cluster with the turn switch. This cluster is normally found on the left side, with the un-used button on the bottom, however you may find this button on the top or on the right side. Trace the cluster wires to where they plug into a bunch of wires under the gas tank. Find the white/red wire and unplug the wire coming from the connector, leaving the connector pluged into the wire coming from the switch cluster. Thread the white/red wire from the starter through the frame and plug it into the connector.
Since you can not determine if the tab is too long when the clutch center is installed you will need to check it prior to installing. If you purchase a new clutch center and had Old Britts install it in the new clutch basket, a tab washer that fits will be included.
The important thing about the Old Britts starter is the tension on the belt. When the bike is running, the tension on the belt is at the top of the belt. When the starter is starting the bike, the tension is on the bottom of the belt. Because of the high torque of the starter motor, if the belt is lose, the belt will be slapped against the belt tensioner and can cause the belt to break. We have found that the correct belt tension is when the bottom of the belt is very tight against the tensioner and you can just twist the top of the belt about 45 degrees.
If shims are included, place them on top if the tensioner bolt holes.
Place the belt tensioner on top of the shims. You may find it easier to place the tensioner under the belt and pull up the front of the tensioner and slide the shims one at a time under the tensioner. Thread the two 1/4" bolts from the bottom through the belt tensioner and tighten.
The best way to modify the 750 center stand is to drill out the hole by clamping the stand to a drill press. The problems with drilling the stand by hand, is you will get chatter and might not get a round hole. Instead of drilling the hole, the hole can be carefully filed so the new spacers fit snugly, but rotates freely.
This page was written and designed by F. H. Eaton
& Associates if you have any questions or comments please
contact us at infon@fheaton.com