Old Britts
Electric Starter Installation Check List
Third phase
Mounting the swingarm onto the engine cradle
Re-assembling the engine cradle onto the bike.

Last updated 11/01/11

This check list pertains to mounting the swingarm onto the engine cradle and then re-assembling the engine cradle onto the bike. We are assuming the MK3 vernier adjustable isolastics and the MK3 swingarm lubrication system are being used. No special factory tools are required for this phase.

Line No. Description Check
1 You will need to wax and paint the bare spots on the new engine cradle, see MK3 Rear Mount Modified for the Old Britts Starter .
2 Make sure the inside of the engine cradle tube, that the isolastics fit into, is clean and smooth. .
3 Apply a very thin film of grease inside the cradle tube. .
4 Make sure the fixed end of the bonded rubber shaft of the isolastic will end up on the left hand side of the bike and the adjuster end of the shaft ends up on the right. The end of the shaft where the threads do not go completely to the end of the shaft is the fixed end. The fixed end takes the isolastic abutment which has the set screw. .
5 Start the first rubber bushing by hand to get all the leading edge into the tube. .
6 Press the shaft through the tube with a equal amount of thread sticking out both ends. .
7 Place the end cap over the fixed side of the tube and one PTFE washer. .
8 Thread the abutment on to the fixed end of the shaft so that when it just runs out of thread, it is snug against the PTFE washer, but still allows the PTFE washer to rotate. .
9 Place the MK3 swingarm oil seals over the swingarm bushings with the flat side facing the swingarm. .
10 Press the bushings into the swingarm. .
11 Slide the swingarm over the engine cradle making sure the swingarm is facing in the correct direction. .
12 Lightly oil the swingarm spindle with 90 weight or higher oil. .
13 Align the flats on the spindle with the cotter tubes on the engine cradle and insert through the first bushing, then the engine cradle and finally the second bushing. .
14 The threads in the spindle are 9/16 x 18, which are the same threads on the front axle. If the flats on the spindle do not align correctly, thread something into one end of the spindle and rotate the spindle until the flats are correctly aligned. .
15 Install the cotter pins from the top, gently tapping on the top of the cotter pins to firmly seat them. .
16 Place the fiber washer, flat washer and the nut on the ends of the cotter pins. .
17 Tighten the nut to firmly seal the fiber washer against the cotter tube. Around 10 ft.lb. to 15 ft.lb. will seal the fiber washer. You can use a 1/4 x 28 lock nut, instead of the plain nut used by the factory, so all you have to do is tighten the nut enough to make a good seal and not worry about the nut vibrating loose. .
18 Insert the rubber plugs on top of the cotter pin tubes. .
19 Soak the felt wicks in 90 weight or greater oil. The wicks will expand slightly when they absorb the oil. Let the wicks drain off the excess oil for a couple of minutes prior to installing. .
20 The oil cylindrical wick will not slide into the swingarm spindle due to its expanded size. Turn the wick clockwise and thread it into the spindle. Use a needle nose pliers to completely thread the wick into the spindle. The top of the wick should be flush with the end of the spindle. .
21 Place the oil disc wick on top of the spindle. .
22 Place the welch plug concave side down, into the end of the swingarm. .
23 Punch the center of the welch plug to flatten it out, expanding the O.D. and sealing the system or place a bead of silicone adhesive sealant around and over the plug. .
24 While there is easy access, clean off any gasket residue from the crank case where the oil junction block mounts to the case. Apply a gasket cement to only one side of the gasket and to the case, then adhere the gasket to the case. .
25 If this is a late model 750 where the breather housing mounts to the lower crank, clean off any gasket residue from the crank case. Apply a gasket cement to only one side of the gasket and to the case, then adhere the gasket to the case. .
26 Install both isolastic end caps on the engine cradle, but remove both the isolastic adjuster and abutment from the shaft, insert the engine cradle and swingarm into the frame. .
27 Insert the rear mounting stud through the frame and the engine cradle to temporarily hold it in place. .
28 Place the isolastic adjuster into the rubber boot and then the PTFE washer. .
29 Place the isolastic abutment into the rubber boot and then the PTFE washer. .
30 Remove the mounting stud, dropping the engine cradle down slightly and fully thread on the abutment. .
31 Tighten the abutment set screw. .
32 Fully thread on the adjuster so it is as tight as you can get it. .
33 Reposition the engine cradle and insert the mounting stud. .
34 Insert the stepped washers into the lower engine cradle mount and insert the lower engine bolt. .
35 Insert the other two engine bolts and tighten up all three bolts. If you are using stainless bolts and nuts, place a bit of anti-seize inside each nut. Torque the top two bolts to 30 ft.lb. and the bottom bolt to 20 ft.lb. .
36 Insert the new rear mounting stud, if you are replacing the mounting stud. Do not tighten it up at this time. .

We estimate this step will take approximately 3 hours.

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